Day 6 – Bikers and Bees
I checked out and began a long day of driving, making my way west toward the Vršič Pass. I didn’t mind the distance, traveling twisty roads through tiny villages, except when having to backtrack once for a construction closure. Reaching the pass, I made my way up the first 24 hairpin turns to the summit, stopping for lunch and about an hour of walking around. It was a good place for people-watching, from the young people casually scrambling up a near-vertical hill with no climbing gear, to the pack of motorcyclists nibbling on Stella d’Oro breakfast treats. Next, onward to Tourist Farmhouse Kranj in the town of Koseč, at the top of a mountain via a series of switchbacks.
Though I would have liked time to rest, I had scheduled a beekeeping tour with Apitourism Kozjak right after check-in. I was looking forward to this a lot. I learned about the honey making process and enjoyed tasting different types made from various flowers. I also tried the aerosol inhalation from the beehive, which is said to be very relaxing, but it didn’t seem to have any effect on me. It felt rather ridiculous wearing an oxygen mask hooked up to the bees in the wall. The rest of the day was spent exploring the quaint villages surrounding the tourist farm, followed by a home cooked dinner of lamb, potatoes, and vegetables.
Day 7 – A Skydiving Sheep Says, “Beeee!”
I woke up early and visited Slap Kozjak, following a path along the turquoise Soča River, and ending at the waterfall inside a grotto. After breakfast, I walked around Dresnica village, then took a drive to Bovec. The town is a mini-adventure sport destination with rafting, skydiving, and more, but that wasn't really my thing. I was content to hike the Visna Trail a short distance and back. I had lunch at Kamp Lazar, then drove to the Nadiža River for possible swimming, when a thunderstorm hit. It rained on and off for a few hours, so I walked around Kobarid town and ducked into the cheese museum to escape a downpour. For dinner, I returned to my tourist farm for cabbage soup and trout.
Day 8 – All About Eggplant
I started the day with a visit to Tolmin Gorge. I parked in town near a shuttle bus stop, but was unsure of the schedule, so I walked about a mile and a half to the gorge. It was an interesting route, through residential, then industrial areas, and then a farm pasture of cows clanging their bells. Tolmin Gorge was an enjoyable climb from ground level to a very high bridge. There was steady foot traffic along sometimes steep and narrow paths, and I was rather perplexed someone brought their dog along. Afterward, I continued driving, ending up at Most na Soči and an impossibly turquoise-green lake with a walking path. Waited out another brief storm with some hail, then returned to the tourist farm, where my laundry was done.
For dinner, I had a much-anticipated visit to Hisa Franko, one of the most acclaimed restaurants in Europe. I had made a reservation 8 months in advance, before I booked anything else for the trip! I had the 8 course tasting menu, without a wine pairing. The dinner, called “Trip to Heaven,” was comprised of a succession of small plates, including some bites outside of the numbered courses. Perhaps my anticipation was too great, but it was kind of hit or miss. I did enjoy the rich earthy lamb brain donut, artfully presented cuttlefish, and “All About Eggplant” with smoky black garlic sauce. However, I didn’t know what to do with the whole potato baked inside bread inside hay, and a broth with egg yolk I think I didn’t eat correctly. We were told to expect precisely timed courses, but sometimes there were long delays. Dessert was horseradish and pork, but in a sweet custard, which was surprisingly tasty. Across the dining room, an older couple was sucking face, so at least someone was having a trip to heaven.
Wow! these towns look like postcards :) Thank you for the detailed itinerary, definitely adding to my bucket list!